Nordic finds in Urabandai

By: :KaikiYoko 0 Comment

Northern Europe in Urabandai
Hotelli aalto and Swedish Chocolate

I took advantage of the three-day weekend to visit Hotelli aalto in Urabandai, Fukushima Prefecture.

This hotel carries chocolates from Malmö Chokladfabrik. I actually visited and enjoyed Urabandai in winter, so I'd like to share my experience.

A Small Hotel in the Forest

"HOTELLI" means "hotel" in Finnish, and "aalto" means "wave." The name, which also refers to Alvar Aalto, a prominent Finnish architect, expresses respect for Northern Europe.

Located in the forest of Bandai-Asahi National Park, close to Goshikinuma, this small hotel has just 17 rooms. It's a renovated 40-year-old mountain lodge, revived with the spirit of "kintsugi," the traditional Aizu craft of mending broken pottery to make it even more appealing.

The hotel was born from the desire to connect the Nordic lifestyle of living richly amidst harsh nature with the Japanese spirit of reverence for nature.

Winter Urabandai: Activity Extravaganza

This time, I thoroughly enjoyed Urabandai in winter!

Snowboarding 🏂

Snowboarding at a ski resort in the Urabandai area with Mount Bandai in view.

The exhilaration of gliding under a blue sky, gazing at snow-covered Mount Bandai and Lake Inawashiro, was exceptional! The snow quality was also excellent, allowing me to snowboard to my heart's content.

Goshikinuma Snowshoeing ❄️

While Goshikinuma is explored on foot in summer, it's a snowshoeing adventure in winter. Walking through the snow-covered forest and admiring the frozen ponds and snow-dusted trees revealed a completely different, magical world than in summer.

Yellow Fall 💛

And to the magnificent, winter-only sight: Yellow Fall!

This is a natural phenomenon unique to winter, where iron and mineral-rich water from Mount Bandai's fumaroles freezes into a golden icefall. Accessible only by snowshoe, it is truly the highlight of winter in Urabandai.

Along the way, I also saw steam rising from Mount Bandai. It was a valuable experience to feel the breath of an active volcano up close.

Smelt Fishing on Lake Hibara 🎣

On the frozen Lake Hibara, smelt fishing, a winter tradition, was also available. Fishing huts lined up on the ice and an endless expanse of white lake surface—it felt like a Nordic landscape.

Rejuvenating in the Sauna 🧖♀️

My body, chilled from activities, was warmed in the sauna and a natural hot spring. Wearing a sauna hat, I felt thoroughly rejuvenated. (This was not Hotelli aalto.)
The snowy landscape viewed during an outdoor cool-down—this was truly the moment of "rejuvenation."

Lunch at "Yusan" for Exquisite Soba

For lunch between activities, I visited Yusan.

If you're eating soba in Urabandai, this place is a must-visit.

Yusan's soba is made with natural spring water that wells up on the premises. That's why it has such transparency. It's smooth and beautiful, and just looking at it makes you feel refreshed.

Served in a beautiful, dyed ceramic bowl, the thin soba noodles have a smooth texture and a subtle, delightful aroma. The condiments—green onions, wasabi, grated daikon, and bonito flakes—are simple, which highlights the deliciousness of the soba and the purity of the spring water.

Aizu is famous for its soba, but soba made with spring water is exceptionally good. If you come to Urabandai, I highly recommend stopping by this restaurant.

"Japanese French Eaten with Chopsticks"
— Savoring Fukushima's Bounty

Dinner at Hotelli aalto is served at the "Tagokoro" restaurant.

The characters for "Ta" (field) and "Kokoro" (heart) combine to form "Omo" (thought)—implying "care" put into each dish. Based on the principle of "Shindo Fuji" (body and earth are one), the desire is to deliver the bounty of Fukushima and Aizu.

The menu is "A Gift from aalto: Japanese French Eaten with Chopsticks." It's French cuisine prepared with French techniques, but served in a style that can be enjoyed with chopsticks.

What surprised me was that the menu is completely different every night.
Even staying for multiple nights, you won't get bored and can fully enjoy ingredients from various parts of Fukushima Prefecture.

The number of Fukushima ingredients and producers featured over three days was countless. Seafood from Soma Haramachi, Joban, and Sanriku, brand-name meats such as Date-dori chicken, Kawamata Shamo chicken, Fumotoyama Kogen pork, and Fukushima Kirameki beef, and names of producers like Yasuda Farm, Sora-chan Noen, Yamaki Ranch, and Suda Farm graced the menu.

And since it's all-inclusive, all drinks are free. From Fukushima's local sake, including Minamiaizu Kokuiken Sake Brewery, to local whisky, craft beer, and wine—you can enjoy them freely to pair with your meal.

Every night, I looked forward to dinner, wondering what would be served. It was a culinary journey through Fukushima, enjoyed in a restaurant with a fireplace.

Breakfast Also Full of Fukushima's Bounty

Breakfast was also exceptional.

Egg over rice, a colorful salad, pickles, simmered dishes, miso soup—the breakfast served in colorful striped dishes was visually beautiful and brought happiness from the morning.

I started my day with a gentle breakfast, carefully prepared with local ingredients, good for the body.

Surrounded by Nordic Masterpiece Furniture

Upon entering the hotel, you are greeted by the scent of wood and high ceilings.

With Artek stools, Hans J. Wegner chairs, and objects by Finnish artists, the lounge, tastefully arranged with Nordic masterpiece furniture, offers a comfortable atmosphere just by being there.

Paintings and flowers displayed throughout the building also add warmth to the space.

The Nordic culture, which emphasizes comfort in furniture to enjoy long, harsh winters indoors, is evident here. The space, incorporating this idea, truly felt like "authentic Northern Europe."

Cute figurines reminiscent of Aizu's folk toys also provide an accent unique to this hotel, where Japanese and Nordic styles blend naturally.

Lakes and Snowy Scenery on the Premises

Hotelli aalto's grounds feature two beautiful lakes.

Borrowing a walking stick with a bear bell, I walked along the snow-covered path, where a quiet lake surrounded by a coniferous forest appeared. Like Goshikinuma, the lake, filled with highly transparent spring water welling up from the bottom, partially freezes in winter, offering a magical scene.

Small snowmen lined the garden, and the snowy landscape outside the window was just like winter in Northern Europe.

Swedish Chocolate in a Nordic Setting

In a corner of the lounge, Malmö Chokladfabrik chocolates are sold.

The handwritten POP made by the staff mentioned "Established in 1888" and "Bean to Bar chocolate." I was very pleased that they carefully conveyed the brand's appeal.

The lineup was extensive, including "Sambirano" made with Madagascar cacao, refreshing "Lemon & Liquorice," and Nordic-inspired "Salt Caramel & Cardamom."

Enjoying activities, warming up in the hot springs, savoring Fukushima's bounty, and indulging in Swedish chocolate in a Nordic space—it was the ultimate luxury.

Urabandai Through the Seasons

Urabandai is a richly natural area with over 300 lakes and marshes created by the eruption of Mount Bandai, and extensive forests.

It's a place with seasonal delights: fresh greenery in spring, a summer retreat, autumn foliage, and winter snow activities.

This time I enjoyed winter, but next time I'd like to visit during the autumn foliage season. I imagine the contrast of Goshikinuma's blue with red and yellow autumn leaves would be beautiful.

Conclusion

Hotelli aalto offers a maximum 21-hour stay with 3 PM check-in and 12 PM check-out.

If you want to go to Northern Europe but don't have the time, this place is highly recommended. From Tokyo, you can take the Shinkansen and Ban'etsu West Line to Inawashiro Station, with a shuttle service available from there.

In a quiet forest, surrounded by Nordic design, you can soak in a natural hot spring, savor Fukushima's bounty, and enjoy Swedish chocolate. If you want to be active, there's snowboarding, snowshoeing, and Yellow Fall.

Urabandai offers both dynamism and tranquility. I will definitely come again.